Gardening

I'm headed back to the States in a few days to visit my parents, and one of the things I am most excited about is picking up the seeds that HB ordered. He's decided to finally give making his own hot pepper sauce a go so he ordered a wide variety of hot pepper seeds to try and grow: some habañeros, some poblanos, some purple jalapeños and some Butch-Ts (the hottest pepper in the world). The peppers should be relatively easy to grow -- they love a hot humid climate, and as long as we can keep the birds off them, they should do well.

I am more nervous about the handful of herb seeds and the one packet of tomato seeds I ordered. Tomatoes are not big fans of the damp, so I will have to struggle to keep them dry. I also have never grown tomatoes on my own before, and I know they can be finnicky and difficult, so I may be asking advice from you, my readers, a few times once I've got the seeds planted.

All in all, I'm definitely excited to start a new hobby here on Tortola and will keep you updated with our progress.

Practicality

Our hotel guests love the tropical fruit trees that grow all over the property. The giant breadfruit tree is particularly popular, but we have soursop, sugar apple, marmy apple, almond, and all kinds of banana plants, too. The guests think the fruit trees give the property a great ambience -- make you feel like you're really in the Caribbean. Our gardeners and our chefs, though, like the trees for another reason.

They provide fresh fruit for use in the kitchen. Our kitchen uses tons of bananas -- both green bananas (as a starch substitute/ in place of potatoes) and ripe bananas. Cutting the bananas from our trees when they're green provide the option of using them green or waiting for them to ripen while they hang in the pantry. When you order any banana-related food here, you can be sure it's fresh and local.

La Dolce Vita

Things on Saturday night didn't go exactly to plan. As I discussed doing in my post from Saturday, I stopped by La Dolce Vita to pick up some ice cream to photograph. While I was in the store, located along the "frontage road" for Waterfront Drive, near the Glancina George Building, I tried to take some pictures of the beautiful case of colorful gelato on offer at La Dolce Vita. Classic flavors like Pistachio and Chocolate are complimented by more creative examples like the new Pina Colada, and the intriguing, bright-blue, "Smurf" (does it taste like sarsparilla?).

Unfortunately, the beers I had consumed at Mulligan's St. Patrick's Day celebration inhibited my camera skills, and all my photos turned out as blurry smears of light and colour. Probably related is the fact that I completely neglected to take any photographs of the gelato I actually purchased before ravenously consuming it. So you're going to have to make do with imagining the loveliness of the creamiest, most flavorful gelato you've ever tasted, and then realize that's what they produce at La Dolce Vita. Of the four flavors we've tried (hazelnut, caramel crunch, banana and coconut) the hazelnut was my favorite, with an intensly nutty, roasted flavor that reminded me of eating nutella straight from the jar.

I have no idea how HB and I have managed to live in the BVI for eighteen months without ever giving the place a try. After moving here and discovering that the ice cream sold at the grocery store was usually freezer-burned and hard as a brick, we just gave up on ice cream consumption wholesale, assuming we would just have to make do with the occasional DQ treat when we were back in the States. How we could ignore the richly flavored, perfectly-textured offerings of La Dolce Vita for so long, I don't know.

The point is: if you're in the BVI and need an ice cream fix, ignore the sad freezer cases at the grocery stores and make a beeline for La Dolce Vita. You won't regret it.

They're Running Out of You

I've driven by this food stand almost every day for the past year, but it wasn't until recently, after watching the Seinfeld episode, "The Comeback", that I cottoned on to the double entendre inherent in its name.

Cuba Libre

I often complain about commodities that are common in the US that I am unable to find on Tortola -- simple things like blankets and rice noodles. But here's something that turns the tables.

According to HB, Cuban rum does not make the best Cuba Libre.

Sunday Brunch

Since trying their mojito happy hour last winter, we've long been fans of the location of the Clubhouse at Frenchman's, and our visit last Sunday only reconfirmed what a beautiful spot they have, with a view to the South-East over the Sir Francis Drake Channel, and wonderfully manicured grounds surrounding the restaurant.

The location alone is almost enough reason to return to the Clubhouse, but we had an unfortunate experience at dinner over the summer, so it took a lot of convincing for me to get HB to return for Sunday brunch. Only the multiple reports from many different quarters of the deliciousness of the brunch food prevailed on HB to give the Clubhouse another try. I think both of us were happy he relented, as not only did the service at brunch show an improvement over dinner, but so did the food.

Frenchman's offers a three-course prix fixe brunch menu, including one "libation" and coffee, for $24 per person. Even if the food were mediocre, it would be a pretty good deal, but as it stands, this is probably one of the best restaurant values on Tortola.

First courses range from house-made duck liver pate to a New York style bagel with dill and salmon cream cheese, while second courses offer a wider variety of both sweet and savory options. My Belgian waffle was nearly transcendent, it was so light and fluffy and creamy. I seriously have never had such a delicious waffle, nor known that they could even approach such deliciousness.

I expected the "libation" included in the prix fixe menu to reflect the weak pour we experienced at happy hour, but, happily, the opposite was true. Similarly, the coffee was Grade A Blue Mountain, freshly brewed in a French press -- by far the best cup of coffee I've ever had. I would almost say you should go for this reason alone, but unfortunately, when we ordered a second cup, it seemed more like Folgers grounds than the Blue Mountain we were expecting.

Dessert did not quite live up to the standard of the rest of the meal, with somewhat uninspired choices (key lime pie or passion fruit cake). The cake was a little dry, but ultimately, I was too stuffed from the rest of my meal to properly enjoy dessert anyway.

If you happen to be on Tortola on a Sunday, brunch at Frenchman's is highly recommended.

Red Bug

HB called me on Christmas Eve morning to ask if I wanted lobster for dinner. His coworker's brother-in-law had been out fishing, and apparently had quite a fine catch. I was hesitant to assent, as I didn't really know if I could handle dispatching the lobster myself. When the brother-in-law offered to cook it and deliver it to HB at work, though, it looked like we were having lobster for Christmas Eve dinner.

It wasn't until we got home and fished the fellow out of his delivery bag that we fully appreciated how many days in a row we would probably having lobster for dinner.

But what a lot of delicious lobster rolls he made. 

Mermaid's

HB goes to Virgin Gorda about once a week for work, and so at the end of our anniversary day on Virgin Gorda last weekend, he took me to one of the many restaurants he frequents.

Mermaid's Dockside Bar is one of the more popular local watering holes on Virgin Gorda, and there was a lively game of dominoes taking place when we arrived.

The draw for me was the location. The restaurant is situated on a pier, completely surrounded by water. No other restaurant I've encountered in the BVI can quite match this literal, "on the water" feel.

We had a few beers and watched the impending sunset until our food arrived. We had to wait for the pizza oven to heat up to the appropriate 900 degrees, but with views like these, we weren't in any rush.

Of all the pizza I've had in the BVIs, the pizza HB had at Mermaid's was probably the closest thing I've had to Stateside pizza. Even as good as it was, it did not compare to the tastiness of my entree: whole, steamed red snapper with fried plantains and mac 'n' cheese. Too intent on devouring it to take a picture, let me reassure you that its eye was all the clue I needed that it hadn't been out of the water for very long.

For a combination of ambience and fresh, local fish, I have yet to find Mermaid's equal in the BVI.

Chickens

I suppose after months of the weekly creature feature, it is finally time to talk about chickens.

I've been putting off the chicken conversation for a while because, quite frankly, I don't like how they wander freely all over the island. Tourists seem to love them, as I suppose they lend a rather more Caribbean character to Tortola. My general fear of birds, along with my belief that birds are very dirty, probably contributes to my dislike of the local chickens.

My dislike is increased by the chickens' choice of dumpsters as favored hangouts. While they understandably enjoy snacking on whatever sweet morsels may be found in the trash, I always have a small heart attack when I throw some trash into the dumpster, and a startled chicken comes rocketing out, screeching, wings a-flapping.

At least the food trucks selling fried chicken help keep the chicken population in check.

Neighbor Goat

One of the most exciting parts of our new apartment is the goat that lives right across the street.



He was awfully inquisitive when I approached him, and ran up to Roscoe to give him a good sniff, even though Roscoe seemed like he couldn't care less.

I should probably hold off on being too excited though. I didn't see him on Wednesday or Thursday, and I have this sinking feeling that he's likely been curried.

A good lesson for me not to become too attached to the animals.

Tea Anyone?

An excess of rain on Friday night brought a few new plants to our yard.

Are these the type of mushrooms that go into the special tea brewed for full moon parties?

I have no idea, but there's more than one mycologist who reads this blog that might hazard a guess.

Trellis Bay Kitchen

I have been wanting to write about Trellis Bay Kitchen for some time, and every time we eat there I think, "next time I'll bring the camera and write a post." And yet, I continually fail to bring the camera, probably because we often choose Trellis Bay on the spur of the moment.

Known throughout Tortola for their "Famous Awesome Sandwich", after three visits, I have yet to try anything else, because the sandwich is truly awesome. The sandwich comes without any sides, although you won't miss them, as the sandwich is more than enough to fill you up. With the best multi-grain bread I've ever had serving as palate, the sandwich has melted cheese, veg, and an option of six different types of fish, or ham and turkey. The flying fish has been rumored to be the best, but there's been a shortage of flying fish in the BVI for six months now, so HB and I have had to opt for snapper and smoked wahoo, both of which were great.

The location and vibe of Trellis Bay Kitchen offer encouragement of their own to visit. Located at the far end of Beef Island, you can't really go any father East on Tortola. The kitchen sits on Trellis Bay, and offers windsurfing equipment and lessons, along with a cybercafe. It's a great spot to spend a relaxed afternoon, enjoying the tastiest sandwich on the islands.

Deli France

Located across the street from Tico, in Wickham's Cay I, Déli France has become a serious food resource for me. While I've stopped in at Déli France many times in the past, usually to pick up some prosciutto or pancetta, only recently have I started visiting on a regular basis.

As the sign says, the deli functions as a bakery, charcuterie, and cheese shop, along with offering lunch sandwiches. The wide variety of European meats and cheeses often helps me complete my grocery shopping. The fresh croissants and pastries make a quick, inexpensive, and delicious breakfast option. Other European products, like Fage yogurt and Illy beverages are also available.

The French Bakery, as I call it, is open from 8am to 6pm Monday through Friday, and 9am to 1pm Saturday.

Island fruits

I love talking botany and foodstuffs with my co-workers, and the numerous fruit trees on the property present a wide variety of topics for us to learn a little bit about each other's cultures.

One conversation resulted in the astonishment of my co-worker that not only had I never tasted a marmy apple (also known as a mammy apple) before, I'd never even heard of one. So the gardener picked a ripe one off the tree for me, and I shared it with HB at home.

Similarly, although I'd heard of and seen breadfruit before, I had no idea what to do with the ripe one our gardener tried to give me. "Cook it like a potato" was the answer from one of the housekeepers. Not exactly self-explanatory, as there are so many ways to cook a potato.

My general ignorance of which fruit or nut is growing on which tree has also led staff members to assume I don't know what almonds or tangerines are - a misunderstanding quickly cleared up when I explain that although I've eaten them plenty of times, I've never seen them growing "in the wild" as it were.

Perhaps most satisfying is the overall willingness of BVIslanders and those from throughout the Caribbean to share their knowledge of island fruits and plants with me. All I have to do is ask. Guess it's time to find out what those spiny green things on the tree near the laundry are. I think they're sugar apples, but I'd be delighted to find out I'm wrong.

Spaghetti Junction

I realized last night as we considered restaurant options for dinner that I haven't posted about my favorite restaurant on island, Spaghetti Junction. Open for both lunch and dinner, Spaghetti Junction succeeds where few other restaurants on the island do, in having distinctive and delicious menus for both meals.

By night, Spaghetti Junction suits its name, serving primarily italian-style fare with a Caribbean twist. HB and I have eaten dinner there three times, and haven't had anything less than stellar. My favorite entree, the gnocchi gorgonzola, is unfortunately temporarily off the menu while the proprietors try to find a more reliable source for the ingredients; but until they do, their other entrees, like tiger prawns and jambalaya pasta, are more than suitable substitutes.

I think HB likes Spaghetti Junction for lunch as much as I like it for dinner. Their standard lunch menu of slightly-upscale sandwiches and salads is daily complimented with their specials board, which usually features a mix of Indian and West Indian cuisine. The platter of goat curry HB ordered there has been one of his most memorable meals on island, bones and all.

Located on Wickham's Cay I very close to the cruise ship dock, Spaghetti Junction is highly recommended no matter what time of day.

Puzzling Prices

I continue to be baffled by the costs of goods and services in the BVI. I've documented the high price of food, and also the astonishingly low price of birth control pills. Every time I try some new, yet commonplace, activity, I have no idea what to expect to pay. A base model compact rental car costs $55 per day in low season (compare to about $20 per day in the US), but today HB got his glasses adjusted and repaired, including a new nose piece to replace the one he'd lost, for $7.

If I had to generalize, I would say that cost of living in the BVI is about 30-50% more than in all but the most expensive locales of the US. But then I get three months' of birth control for $6 and I have to revise my thinking.

Beer Burnout

After 8 months on Tortola, HB and I are facing a crisis we never even imagined could exist. We are both burnt out on beer. Being a big fan of beer, I didn't think things would ever come to this, but I believe the root of the problem lies not with beer in general, or with my taste buds, but rather with the limited selection of beer available on island.

Colorado, you see, is a wonderland of beer. It is awash in major breweries and microbreweries alike, and other breweries throughout the country seem to like to market their beers in Colorado, too. You can find literally hundreds of varieties of beer in Colorado, if you look hard enough, whether in cans or bottles, or on draft. In stark contrast, by my last count, there are maybe 20 types of beer available in the BVI, and that includes O'Doul's. I am also, apparently, a bit of a beer snob, as of the 20 types available, there are maybe only 10 that I will drink on any sort of regular basis (Miller Lite, Coors Light, etc. are not my cup of tea)  and after 8 months, I want something different.

The other contributing factor to my incipient beer burnout is the lack of beer on draft. I've heard that a few bars on island used to have beer taps and real kegs, but I haven't been able to find any since I've been here. Beer from a bottle or can just doesn't taste as good as a fresh draft beer.

We're planning another trip to St. John soon, and I'm hopeful that, being a US Territory, there will either be different beer available there, or someplace that keeps a few kegs. Otherwise, it will be September before my dreadful beer burnout condition will have a chance to be treated.

What We Lack in Food

As I sit here enjoying my burrito, leftover from dinner last night, I realize that there were a few things in my restaurant post from a few days ago that I alluded to, but did not specifically make clear.

First, if you are a fan of American-style fast food, like Taco Bell, KFC, or McDonald's, you may be mildly disappointed in your eating options when you come to the BVI. The closest you'll find to fast food is a place like Crandall's. Delicious, yes, but not satisfying in quite the same way that a Whopper is; at least not for me. Since I'm a bit of a fast food addict (shameful, I know) this has required some adjustment on my part.

Second, if you are a fan of what we can call "ethnic" cuisine -- TexMex, Mexican, Thai, Chinese, Japanese, Ethiopian, Moroccan, Uzbek, Greek, etc. etc. -- you may be mildly disappointed in your eating options when you come to the BVI. The only "ethnic" cuisine you'll find here is West Indian.

There are two restaurants that purport to offer Chinese food, each of which provides passable examples thereof, if you know what to order. There is one restaurant on East End that I have yet to try that supposedly has good TexMex, although I'm dubious. When we tried to go to Fat Cat Thai Restaurant, we found it no longer in business, just a few short months after the Limin' Times (the local entertainment magazine) had given it glowing reviews.

Since HB and I can manage to cook reasonable replicas of TexMex, Thai, Chinese, and Greek food, we do not have to go completely without, as evidenced by my burrito lunch, made possible through my mother's generous shipment of Stokes' green chili.

Restaurants

I've written several times about specific restaurants that HB and I have visited, but nothing about the restaurant culture on island in general. What kind of experience can someone expect when they go out to dinner (or lunch, or breakfast) on Tortola?

There are essentially three types of dining establishments on the island: those that cater to visitors and expats; those that cater to West Indians; and bars. Government prohibits franchises, so all restaurants are pretty much one-offs, except Pusser's, which is a locally owned chain.

Service pretty much everywhere is slow and rarely customer-oriented, which can be a big difference for someone from the US or Canada, but is not unlike service I've encountered in Europe. The exception to this rule on Tortola at least is the Sugar Mill. 

Bars provide pretty much the sort of bar food you would expect, with burgers, sandwiches, pizza, and the occasional roti or pate thrown in. West Indian restaurants, unsurprisingly, offer a variety of West Indian cuisine, like ox tail stew, curried goat, ginger wine chicken, and shrimp creole. Entrees at bars and West Indian restaurants generally start around $10 and go up from there, with large pizzas typically costing around $20.

In sharp contrast are the restaurants that cater to visitors and expats, which provide a pretty standard rotation of continental fare, with the occasional French or Asian fusion flair. Sky Bar is perhaps an exception to this, as they specialize in teppanyaki and sushi. A visit to one of these restaurants is usually accompanied by a fair bit of sticker shock on my part, as vegetarian and chicken dishes usually start around $20. While often the quality of food is not much different from what you'd find at an Applebee's for half the price, there are a few of these restaurants that offer a better overall value through higher food quality or better service.

Poolside Dining

We have been honored over the last two days with our first guests on Tortola. Some friends of ours arrived on Thursday, and it's been a blast spending time with them and showing them the island. We went to Bananakeet happy hour last night, for the sunset and the live music.

Unfortunately, we had lingered over dinner just a little too long and arrived a few minutes late for the sunset.

But we still sat and enjoyed the views, watching the last bits of color drain from the sky and the silver moonlight fill it.

As we chatted and relaxed, we started noticing bats swooping around about ten yards in front of us, enjoying a feast of insects on the hillside. A few of them passed quite close, but we weren't very alarmed because the only ones we could see were fairly small - maybe six or seven inches wingtip to wingtip - until a cry from a woman behind us alerted us to the bat that was skimming the insects off the pool.

We watched as a very large bat, maybe 2 feet in wingspan, circled the top of the pool over and over again, his wings looking white as the lights shone through the translucent membranes. After ten or twelve revolutions, he flew out back towards the ocean again, not giving much headroom to the diners sitting in his path. Over the course of the next twenty minutes, the same bat came back to enjoy his poolside dinner maybe five or six more times, each time coming closer and closer to the heads of the people eating and drinking. A particularly low pass made me ridiculously uncomfortable, as HB felt the air currents from the wings ruffle his hair, and so we made a hasty retreat, a single bat making a disappointed evening into a night to remember.